Blog Nicolas BORDAS
Nicolas Bordas
Vice President at TBWA/EUROPE & President of BEING Worldwide
What if we learned from luxury brands?
The Tuileries garden is one of the most beautiful spaces in Paris. Filled with families, flaneurs, and tourists, twice a year the garden changes radically: welcoming white tents and swarms of paparazzi, models and voyeurs. Its Fashion Week, folks! And for a small but growing population in the city, Fashion Week is more than glitz and glamour—it’s a big business.
As late as 15 years ago, Fashion Week was a small event virtually unknown to the general public and reserved to buyers and editors. Since then, Fashion Week has had starring roles in documentaries, Hollywood movies, and tell-all novels. Luxury and fashion brands have now begun profiting from this increased exposure, releasing viral videos to promote their new collections, putting bloggers in the front row, and even streaming their shows to the general public via sites like LiveRunway.
Just as Fashion Week has transformed from a niche event to a mass phenomenon, so have luxury labels gone from small privately held and family run businesses to large, publicly traded corporations. The markets for luxury are huge and in spite of our global financial crisis,they are growing.
Luxury brands must now grow and seduce new fans whilst not alienating the principles of exclusivity and quality that have defined them. In my opinion, luxury brands are more than up to this challenge. Indeed, the 21 century has taught us that if anything, consumer brands have a lot to learn from luxury, because these brands innately understand their tangible and intangible value better than many other brands. Just in time for Fashion Week, here are three lessons that every brand can learn from luxury brands.
Lesson N°1: Know your signature codes and play with them
I teach a class on branding at the French university Sciences-Po. Alongside my co-teacher David Jobin, we stress “the art of playing with one’s codes” as necessary for brand communication. Luxury brands have always had strong codes: be they special insignia, the materials used, or even the location of their workshops and stores. These houses are extremely apt at readapting their reference points, be it Louis Vuitton’s construction trunks, Cartier’s sublime “Odyssey” viral video, or Prada’s West Texas highway boutique. Brands that construct strong identities and communication codes distinguish themselves from competitors. Having a strong visual identity and attitude can only help a brand tell better stories.
LESSON N°2: Offer Tailor-Made Shopping Experiences
Luxury brands were among the first to understand the importance of a “shopping experience”—placing their stores in beautiful buildings and having impeccable customer service—this philosophy of premium retailing has been adopted by many brands, in particular Apple, whose Apple Stores have sandstone floor tiles that come from a particular quarry in Italy. In a day an age when brick and mortar shopping is being challenged by e-commerce, brands need to deliver one-of-a-kind experience for those who choose to go into a retail space. Luxury brands have been perfecting the art of customized shopping for centuries.
Lesson N°3: Tell stories through premium content
When a brand has strong codes, it can tell stories. This is what Chanel has been doing marvelously well these past few years. I was most taken with their film “Chanel and the Diamond” which tells the story of Chanel haute jewelry through the life and times of Coco Chanel. Part art film, ad, documentary, and homage, this video marks the final chapter in a 3-part series dubbed “Inside Chanel” which uses video to tell the story of the house through 3 themes: Chanel N°5 Perfume, Marilyn Monroe & Chanel, and Chanel Jewelry. I would urge anyone who is interested in a lesson in brand content to head to the Chanel YouTube page to see the richness of the content that they are producing. For a generation of young fashionistas who get their news not from WWD but from the BOF, these viral videos are a way to preserve the value while sharing the values of the Chanel brand. Even though “Chanel” and “YouTube” might seem diametrically opposed, the brand has managed to appropriate the media in a way that is in harmony with its identity.
It is because of the growing power of luxury brands that in 2011, TBWA\Paris launched the Luxury Arts network. Headed up by Natacha Dzikowski, Luxury Arts exists as a horizontal network in major luxury markets worldwide (Paris, London, Moscow, Los Angeles, Shanghai, Tokyo, and Rio de Janeiro). This micro-network utilizes our top talents in luxury communications to reach consumers in culturally relevant ways. As Natacha says “Luxury brands have strong stories and they never needed more meaning than today, luxury needs smart storytelling fed by disruptive culture and arts.” Luxury Arts is particularly proud of their 2011 spot for Dior’s “J’adore” fragrance. The spot goes beyond a simple perfume ad by combining the history of the Dior house with pop music; a charismatic spokeswoman; Dior handbags and accessories; ready-to-wear archives; and famous faces from the houses’ past—in short it tells the story of Dior. This ad was able to be a major hit while expressing the codes of a highly valuable luxury brand.
As Jean-Marie Dru, Chairman of TBWA\ and creator of Disruption stated in his most recent book Jet Lag “There is probably more to be learned today from Hermès than from General Motors, from Dior than from Unilever.” I couldn’t agree more.
cover photo credit: guestofaguest.com